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Shooters Stuff

 

1. SuperPerformance Powder & Charges For 22-250

 

2. The Kill Flash Yes Or No

 

3. Bullet Seating Tips Tips .223/5.56

 

4. Are LEE Reloading Dies Any Good

 

1. SuperPerformance Powder & Charges For 22-250

 

I’ve read so much crap on the Internet about Hodgdon’s SuperPerformance Rifle Powder that it’s an insult to one’s intelligence, that it doesn’t perform well, it’s not accurate, that the powder will cause your file to blow up, and many more foolish comments, but no one is recording or providing any real data on their results.

 

Reloading a cartridge must include bullet style, bullet weight, starting charge, actual ending charge, primer used, trim length, barrel length, final cartridge overall length, examination of the case condition, chronographing the load, & etc., you must record all the data.

 

I've found that 99.9% of the comments on this powder are not based on any real data and testing, just speculation.

 

Hodgdon recommends this powder for 22-250, 243 Win, and 300 WSM, nothing else, that’s the only data they provide and it’s printed on the bottle and in the Hodgdon Reloading Manual. They also specify a recommended starting bullet weight (using heavier bullets), and they’re not specific with regard to whether the charge printed on the 1lb bottle it’s a starting charge or maximum charge, I believe it to be a maximum charge, if that's the case lower the charge by 10% to start, then work your way up.

 

If you're shooting 22-250 for example, then drop the charge down 10% to be on the safe side, start with a bullet weight at no less than 60 grains, then shoot and chronograph it, you’ll then have a starting point watching for anything abnormal like excessive pressure signs. Assuming that the test rounds proved successful, now start working up your charge with the bullet weight you've chosen and record the data. Never exceed the maximum charge.

 

If you choose to shoot a lighter bullet less than 60 grains in a 22-250, let’s say 55 grains, then you’ll have to adjust accordingly, personally I wouldn't use lighter bullets, follow the powder manufacturer's recommendations.

 

There are many other powders you can utilize, CFE223, BLC-2, IMR4064, Varget, etc., but if you are set on using Superformance than you’re going to have to experiment and you're on your own.

 

Foot Note:

 

I came upon some information that an individual purchased some SuperPerformance and blew the bolt out of his Savage Model 12 22-250 using the printed load on the front of the bottle for reference, and he wasn't at the maximum charge either. Excuse the French, this is just bullshit, the reloader either overcharged the round, had a mechanical problem with his firearm, use the wrong primer, seated the bullet too deep causing over pressure, or did something else worng to cause this to happen.

 

In the end it's up to the reloader to use common sense when reloading, I have no idea what the guy did that caused the bolt to blow out of his rifle, there could be a multitude of reasons for that, most often it's cockpit error caused by the reloader.

 

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2. The Kill Flash Yes Or No

 

In my opinion and this is only my opinion, I prefer a kill flash to no kill flash, I’ll try to explain.

 

First, from a military or civilian unrest perspective the objective for using a kill flash is to eliminate giving away your position to the enemy if sunlight reflects off the objective lens of your scope, however, there’s another key factor when employing a kill flash.

 

It’s imperative that the quality of the scope glass be extremely good so that the purity of the scope lenses achieves optimum light gathering, a cheap scope with cheap lens glass will actually degrade what you see when using a kill flash. It’s further imperative that the scope you’re using has an adjustable diopter to focus the scope.

 

I use Primary Arms ACSS scopes, I’ve found that these scopes are excellent quality with great glass for optimum light gathering and work well with a kill flash, I just leave mine installed.

 

Let’ be honest, the purpose of the kill flash is to prevent an enemy combatant from seeing a reflection from your scope, giving away your position. So, if you’re not involved in military or civil unrest operations, then in reality you have no need for a kill flash. If on the other hand if you always want to be prepared for any and all scenarios, then you may want to consider a kill flash. Also keep in mind that most quality scopes are threaded, so you can install or remove a kill flash at will.

 

So, there's my take on a kill flash.

 

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3. Bullet Seating Tips Tips .223/5.56

 

I may have gotten a bit anal on this subject, but I dove into the subject of inconsistent Cartridge C.O.L. over the past several weeks, some of this information I obtained directly from RCBS and LEE. Keep in mind that I'm parroting some of the information I obtained from RCBS LEE, and Holland. I wanted to share some of my 60 years of experience on this subject with re-loaders should they experience inconsistency with cartridge overall length (C.O.L.) when seating bullets.

First the C.O.L. is obviously based on the cartridge base to a point on the bullet ogive, as its done when using and setting up bullet seating dies.

In addressing variations in bullet ogive I first seated a test sample of Berry’s bullets to a cartridge C.O.L. of 2.250 +- .002 using a caliper to insure a relative consistent C.O.L. of 2.250, again according to caliper measurement. I then used an RCBS micrometer that measures from the cartridge base to the ogive. Measuring from the base to the ogive I found that many bullet’s ogive profile was inconsistent and caused the C.O.L. to vary as much as .015, this is not good. So in many cases the bullets, when they’re struck, are not consistent and you could experience C.O.L variations of as much as .015 or more. Keeping in mind again that your seating die/seating plug is measuring from the cartridge base to the ogive when setting up for a specific C.O.L.. Much of it depends on the quality of the bullet.

The C.O.L. problem lends itself to several issues.

1. First your seating die/seating plug is measuring from the cartridge base to a point on the ogive.

2. During the bullet manufacturing process, when bulk bullets are struck, if the equipment setup isn’t in near perfect condition (tolerance precise), the bullet ogive profile can vary regardless of the seating dies/plugs being used.

3. The machining of the seating plug is critical in terms of the seating plug profile (angle) and depth. If the seating plug machining is not precise, or if the tooling is worn, an inaccurate profile and depth will result affecting the C.O.L.. I learned that Redding seating plugs are actually precision ground and lapped. I can’t speak for LEE dies, but in my discussions with RCBS they indicated that RCBS seating plugs were not precision ground and lapped.

4. There’s another problem with bullet seating plugs, in general seating plugs are not necessarily individually dimensionally precise for the a specific bullet/caliber. For example, Hornady seating plugs for .22 Cal are machined to accommodate a range of grain weights and specific bullet styles, therefore the seating plug profile will not be specific but accommodate a range of various grain weights which can affect the bullet profile dimensionally. All of this can affect how the seating plug contacts the bullet profile and eventual C.O.L.. In reality you would need a specific seating plug machined and ground for the specific bullet you’re using. Note: The Holland's Bullet Comparator mentioned in this documentions is used exclusively by Sierra Bullets on their production line to accommodate this issue.

5. In order to deal with this problem you need a "bullet comparator" which is a precision measuring tool used to examine the bullet profile, not a caliper style bullet comparator, you’ll need a bullet comparator like the Holland Bullet Comparator which is the absolute best available to the reloader, it’s stated as the gold standard, this device is a precision bullet measuring tool that measures only the bullet, bullet base to ogive, within +/- 0.0003 (not cartridge base to ogive), it also uses bullet guides when measuring. It’s not cheap, approximately $225.00 + S&H, but when you’re looking for C.O.L. precision or bullet seating repeatability for a rifle bullet this is the tool I recommend to insure C.O.L. consistency.

It can be very aggravating when one encounters a C.O.L. that varies all over the place when seating bullets and having to constantly adjust the seating die. Personally I use a Holland Bullet Comparator, a bullet micrometer, and a precision micrometer adjusting screw that screws into the seating die. They make these accessories for both pistol and rifle dies. Using these reloading accessories insures that you will always be able to maintain a C.O.L. during the bullet seating operation.

6. The quality of the bullet also becomes critical, in general cheaper bulk bullets can result in wider bullet profile tolerances and affect the C.O.L.. The only way to improve the C.O.L. is to possibly use match grade bullets or sort bullets to maintain a closer C.O.L., this is where the Holland Bullet Comparator comes in. Be careful from whom you purchase reloading bullets.

There will always be some tolerance variation in bullets and so is the case with seating plugs, it just depends on the quality of the bullets and seating dies/plugs being used and the precision you're trying to achieve.

As far as flight of the bullet is concerned, it’s extremely important that the bullet be as perfect as possible in terms of being concentric, if not, this may well be why we often experience occasional fliers, or problems with inconsistent repeatability of the point of impact.

So if one is looking for precision, I would sugest that the reloader would have to start with choosing quality grade bullets, bulk plinking bullets are OK, but if one is looking for precision better quality bullets will be necessary, perhaps something like Hornady, or Nosler bullets and a Holland Bullet Comparator.

That's what I’ve learned over the years from addressing this subject with RCBS, LEE, and Holland. By the way, RCBS is always very cooperative in discussing any reloading issues over the phone, LEE is much more difficult to contact to discuss any reloading issues. Also, there’s no question that many bulk rifle bullets vary in the bullet ogive profile dimensionally, which is problematic when seating bullets to a specific C.O.L.. Remember that a bullet micrometer typically checks a loaded cartridge from the base to ogive, the only way to insure bullet quality and consistency is to use a Holland Bullet Comparator that checks the bullet itself individually.

Here's the link to the Holland Bullet Comparator and a video of how it works:

"https://www.hollandguns.com/32m7/parts-accessories/reloading-accessories.html" \t "_blank" 

Video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fe4AUwl-Ho0

Bob’s Bullets are taughted as being truly match grade. They state that Bobs’ Bullets produces only the finest quality match-grade bulk .223 bullets for demanding target shooters and competitive marksmen. You will not find a more superior bulk reloading bullet at this price anywhere. 

Their bullets may be truly match grade, however, the only way to validate this claim requires that a sufficient sample be verified with an instrument like the Holland Bullet Comparator to insure the relationship of the bullet profile/ogive, basically it’s a method of sorting bullets into groups so they have the same dimensionally characteristics.

In order to validate bullet quality claims requires the necessary measuring instruments on the production line, Sierra Bullets actually utilizes a Holland Bullet Comparator when manufacturing bullets.

So be careful of what someone claims, ask them if they can produce evidence that their manufacturing facility owns and uses precision measuring instruments when manufacturing bullets.

 

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4. Are LEE Reloading Dies Any Good

 

I’ve been reloading for 60 years and I’ve listened to the ridiculous debates criticizing LEE dies as being poor quality and basically junk on Internet forums and Youtube videos. Well, I’m here to tell you that’s just a bunch of crap.

 

First off, YES, LEE dies are typically less expensive, YES, the materials/design they use to manufacture dies varies from one manufacturer to another, in general, RCBS, LEE, Redding, Lyman, Dillion, Hornady, Etc. reloading dies are made from steel, generally all reloading dies are case hardened to approximately rockwell 60-62.

 

Most all reloading dies use carbide inserts for pistol dies, some manufacturers of rifle dies also use carbide inserts, or as an upgrade to their line of die products, LEE dies use some aluminum for various parts of the assembly that aren’t continuously subjected to constant internal wear. Fit and finish may vary slightly from one brand to another, however, LEE dies in my opinion produce a decent quality reload, whether for plinking ammo, general use, or even match grade competition.

 

YES, design varies between different brands of dies, there are different grades of dies, some are high end for precision competitive shooting. For the average re-loader LEE dies are a quality product and more than capable of producing a quality reliable reload.

 

Like everything else, you can drive a Volkswagen or a Ferrari, if you want to drive the best, and achieve consistent results in competition, then you purchase the best. It all comes down to what you’re trying to achieve and most importantly 99% of the results depend on your shooting skill level. I don’t care what reloading equipment you own, if you don’t dedicate the time and practice to polish your shooting skills and understand everything about the firearms you handle and shoot, don’t blame your reloading equipment on poor shooting results.

 

I get annoyed listening to pissing contests on places like Youtube and on shooters forums criticizing manufacturer’s reloading products when they are basically ignorant of the subject they’re discussing. My advise, consult with the professionals, when I say consult with professionals, speak with the manufacturers of reloading equipment like RCBS, LEE, Redding, Lyman, Dillion, and Hornady, aquire their literature and read it, do your own research, and most definitely associate with shooting professionals to learn the necessary skills to improve your shooting experience.

 

Personally, I’ve used both RCBS and LEE reloading dies for almost 60 years and their reloading equipment, my experience has shown that they produce a great quality re-load and are more then capable of both pistol and long range precision shooting.

I hope this information will be of some value to re-loaders.

 

Footnote: Hate mail is immedieatly forwarded to the Bit Bucket.

 

Bob Krueger, AB7CQ

Web Administrator

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